www.mozilla.com Weather Central
Voices
Headlines

DeBakey Heart Institute sponsoring CPR training -1/28/2015, 1:46 PM

Hays Academy of Hair Designs sweeps competition -1/28/2015, 12:06 PM

Hospital restrictions in place at HaysMed -1/28/2015, 10:25 AM

Battling the flu -1/28/2015, 10:06 AM

Comedian, author Rainn Wilson coming to FHSU -1/27/2015, 1:37 PM

Serving up a unique treat with frogmore stew -1/27/2015, 9:12 AM

DeBakey Heart Institute sponsors coffee, conversation -1/26/2015, 11:04 AM

Many can suffer from seasonal disorders -1/26/2015, 9:50 AM

Clubs and meetings (Jan. 25, 2015) -1/25/2015, 3:05 PM

Winter, spring options for winter annual weed control in wheat -1/25/2015, 3:05 PM

Bishop from Ghana visits area -1/23/2015, 7:47 AM

Eating well while spending less actually is possible -1/22/2015, 9:55 AM

One of 5 finalists for FHSU provost position withdraws -1/21/2015, 11:36 AM

Away from home, and longing to be back in Kansas -1/21/2015, 8:44 AM

New Year babies abound at Rooks County Health -1/20/2015, 1:37 PM

'American Sniper' hits its mark in U.S. theaters -1/20/2015, 9:31 AM

HaysMed leads patient safety program -1/20/2015, 9:22 AM

HaysMed joins trend, expands Point of Service collections -1/19/2015, 1:46 PM

Couture-Lovelady assigned to House Rules Committee -1/19/2015, 11:22 AM

Watch out for effects of post-holiday depression -1/19/2015, 8:38 AM

Save some trouble, get agriculture leases in writing -1/18/2015, 3:14 PM

Clubs and meetings (Jan. 18, 2015) -1/18/2015, 3:13 PM

-1/18/2015, 2:00 PM

Hays to host Western region farmers market conference -1/17/2015, 3:23 PM

Community Bulletin Board (Jan. 17, 2015) -1/17/2015, 3:14 PM

Going crazy with a series of new projects -1/16/2015, 2:09 PM

Nex-Tech acquires Computer Solutions -1/15/2015, 2:01 PM

Senior Companion honored -1/14/2015, 2:49 PM

Lang Diesel donates $1,000 to elementary school -1/13/2015, 2:58 PM

For Your Information (Jan. 13, 2015) -1/13/2015, 1:37 PM

Inside a daughter's mind; making play dough for children -1/13/2015, 9:57 AM

Holidays can be manageable, even as a stepfamily -1/12/2015, 8:47 AM

Community Bulletin Board (Jan. 12, 2015) -1/12/2015, 8:47 AM

Clubs and meetings (Jan. 11, 2015) -1/11/2015, 4:00 PM

Calling all precision agriculture geeks -1/11/2015, 3:51 PM

1st film in series on water to feature Cheyenne Bottoms, KWEC -1/9/2015, 4:27 PM

Female farmers shift production trends -1/9/2015, 4:09 PM

Halls of Ivy -1/9/2015, 4:00 PM

Hays Recreation Commission calendar -1/9/2015, 4:00 PM

Regional farmers market vendor workshop Jan. 30 in Hays -1/8/2015, 9:18 AM

Community Bulletin Board (Jan. 8, 2015) -1/8/2015, 9:18 AM

'Into the Woods' strays from the path -1/6/2015, 9:48 AM

Orscheln acquires building in Abilene -1/5/2015, 3:41 PM

Strategies can help stepfamilies through holidays -1/5/2015, 8:46 AM

Community Bulletin Board (Jan. 5, 2015) -1/5/2015, 8:46 AM

Make New Year's resolutions that stick -1/2/2015, 9:44 AM

Acceptance, gratitude and joy -1/2/2015, 9:44 AM

Patterned trail -12/26/2014, 2:42 PM

-12/26/2014, 1:28 PM

Holiday activities for family bonding -12/25/2014, 1:21 PM

'Night at the Museum: Secret of the Tomb' is surprisingly passable -12/23/2014, 9:43 AM

Using tips can help stepfamilies during holidays -12/22/2014, 9:17 AM

2014 Farm Bill decision making steps upcoming for consumers -12/21/2014, 4:27 PM

Clubs and meetings -12/21/2014, 4:26 PM

The Brady Bunch: Remembering to stay the course when things are gloomy -12/21/2014, 4:26 PM

FHSU joins other institutions in alternative-credit consortium -12/20/2014, 6:01 PM

Community members encouraged to vote for favorite cause in spirit of giving -12/19/2014, 4:17 PM

God can be our light during bleak times today, tomorrow, future -12/19/2014, 9:38 AM

Sneak exercise into your holiday activities -12/18/2014, 9:13 AM

Natoma Auxiliary spreads cheer -12/18/2014, 9:13 AM

The joys of the holiday season are all around us -12/17/2014, 10:30 AM

First Care Clinic gets grant -12/16/2014, 4:16 PM

Westar Energy expands commitment to Kansas wind energy -12/16/2014, 12:48 PM

Brownback appoints new Cheyenne County commissioner -12/16/2014, 12:48 PM

'The Battle of the Five Armies' lacking -12/16/2014, 8:23 AM

Baby keeps family active -12/16/2014, 8:23 AM

Hays native serves as intern for Moran -12/15/2014, 11:55 AM

Several ways exist to integrate stepfamilies, holidays -12/15/2014, 9:20 AM

Business Briefcase (Dec. 14, 2014) -12/14/2014, 2:59 PM

Soil test information can lead to bountiful financial returns -12/14/2014, 2:59 PM

Clubs and meetings (Dec. 14, 2014) -12/14/2014, 2:59 PM

Community Bulletin Board (Dec. 13, 2014) -12/13/2014, 3:11 PM

The heart of Christmas -12/12/2014, 8:49 AM

DHDC announces new board members -12/11/2014, 4:17 PM

Area student selected to livestock judging team -12/11/2014, 8:50 AM

Bake ahead, freeze for holidays -12/11/2014, 8:50 AM

Extension estate planning workshops announced -12/10/2014, 3:31 PM

Remembering the Japanese invasion, World War II -12/10/2014, 10:12 AM

DHDC kicks off annual partnership program -12/9/2014, 12:05 PM

A few holiday movies to enjoy -- again -12/9/2014, 9:31 AM

New addition to family brings smiles to faces -12/9/2014, 8:18 AM

Steps can be taken to help stepfamilies adjust to holidays -12/8/2014, 9:41 AM

Genetically modified organism fact or fiction -12/7/2014, 4:12 PM

Clubs and meetings (Dec. 7, 2014) -12/7/2014, 4:11 PM

Yes, there is a Santa Claus -12/5/2014, 9:03 AM

Getting out of balance disrupts life satisfaction -12/5/2014, 9:03 AM

A month of busyness at Hays Public Library -12/5/2014, 9:03 AM

Cookie exchange raises money for children -12/4/2014, 3:27 PM

Master honored with inaugural award -12/4/2014, 8:55 AM

DCF unveils new Hays service center -12/3/2014, 3:29 PM

What's in a color -12/3/2014, 8:57 AM

Several honored for milestone celebrations -12/3/2014, 8:57 AM

A chance encounter overseas -12/3/2014, 8:57 AM

FHSU bands to perform Friday -12/2/2014, 10:19 AM

Dealing with stepfamilies during the holidays -12/1/2014, 8:48 AM

Study finds GMO's safe for livestock -11/30/2014, 3:36 PM

Business Briefcase (Nov. 30, 2014) -11/30/2014, 3:36 PM

Clubs and meetings (Nov. 30, 2014) -11/30/2014, 3:35 PM

Real Black Friday began thousands of years ago -11/28/2014, 9:22 AM

A lifetime of achievements in 4-H -11/26/2014, 7:45 AM

myTown Calendar

SPOTLIGHT
[var top_story_head]

CADE producing great wines in Napa Valley region

Published on -6/11/2013, 2:24 PM

Printer-friendly version
E-Mail This Story

Fads always have been a part of wine's evolution. There was a time when a red wine's quality was judged by its tannins. Another age rewarded chardonnays dominated by oak. More recently, critics have bestowed honors on ripe, alcoholic fruit bombs.

We're not one to doubt the popularity of any of these wines -- winemakers should make wines that satisfy consumers.

However, we have found our palates growing weary of red wines -- some perceptibly sweet -- that are so jammy you can spread them on toast. Many of these hedonistic wines do not pair well with food, nor do we think they will age well.

We were relieved to recently taste the wines from CADE Estate Winery, which are anything but jammy. CADE is a partner of Plumpjack, another producer of extraordinary wine in the Oakville region of Napa Valley. The group is headed by former San Francisco mayor Gavin Newsom and general manager John Conover, who we met years ago when he was at Lockwood Vineyard.

CADE draws most of its fruit from vineyards 1,800 feet up Howell Mountain, a growing area winemaker Danielle Cyrot credits for her wine's more austere profile.

"You can't get really ripe grapes at that elevation," she said. "Also, it's not a style of wine I want to make."

In a cooler vintage, she still manages to get ripeness at a lower sugar level.

That moderates the wine's alcohol level and its jammy quality.

CADE produces only 12,000 to 15,000 cases a year -- mostly red but also a delicious sauvignon blanc -- and its wine is pricey. Cyrot defended the cost and said she knows what goes into these wines.

"We're not skimpy on any aspect," she said.

The 2012 CADE Sauvignon Blanc ($28), blended with some semillon and viognier, is superb. The additional grape varieties add dimension to the aromas and round off the acidity to provide an ideal balance. Instead of the astringent grassy notes, this sauvignon blanc has more melon, citrus and apple flavors. You won't find a sauvignon blanc more complex than this.

The winery's haymaker is 2009 Howell Mountain cabernet sauvignon ($75). It is an iron fist in a velvet glove with CADE'S telltale balance and fresh dark berry fruit. We also liked CADE's cuvee ($60), a blend of 86 percent cabernet sauvignon and the rest made up of merlot, petit verdot and malbec. The black cherry and cassis aromas leap out of the glass, and what follows is no disappointment.

Cyrot, who came to CADE after a stint with St. Clement, said she enjoys sharing notes with winemakers from Plumpjack but insists on making a wine in her own style.

"John Conover said, 'I didn't hire you to make wine taste like Plumpjack. Each winery has its own style,' " she said.

If you're planning a trip to Napa Valley, CADE is worthy of a visit. It is an extraordinary, modern facility with a great view.

Wine picks

* Tenuta di Arceno Chianti Classico 2010 ($20). You get a lot of flavor for your money here. Violet aromas give way to dark berry flavors, a dash of spice and balanced acidity.

* Casillero del Diablo Reserva Carmenere 2011 ($12). This Chilean wine whose name means "devil's cellar" is different for the adventuresome. Made by one of the most popular Chilean wine companies, Cocha y Toro has established a line of simple wines that are uniformly good values. We liked the pinot noir and sauvignon blanc for the same price. Consumers would be wise to check out these excellent values.

* Cline Cool Climate Pinot Gris 2012 ($14). Cline consistently makes some of the best values in Sonoma County. This pinot gris from Sonoma Coast grapes exudes flowery aromas and citrusy fruit. We also like the fresh acidity and pineapple flavors of the 2011 marsanne roussanne blend ($16).

* Don Miguel Gascon Colosal Red Blend 2011 ($15). We know Gascon for its marvelous malbec. Now comes an equally tasty blend that is mostly malbec with the addition of bonarda, syrah and cabernet sauvignon. The additional grapes give greater breadth to the wine plus some complexity and soft tannins. Delicious plum and blackberry flavors with a good dose of oak.

* Alamos Red Blend 2012 ($13). Alamos adds bonarda, tempranillo and syrah to its malbec in this smooth, yummy blend from Argentina. Black cherry and ripe plum flavors with a dash of spice.

Tom Marquardt and Patrick Darr have been writing a wine column for newspapers for more than 20 years.

marq@atlanticbb.net

digg delicious facebook stumbleupon google Newsvine
More News and Photos

Associated Press Videos

AP Breaking News